Of Kebaya Nyonya and Sarung Cloths

What's so amazing about Kebaya Nyonya and Sarung Cloths? The coolest part of all these is that it's a significant element of the Chinese Peranakan community's culture.

The words 'Baba' (for males) and Nyonya' (for females) are used to differentiate these locally born Chinese from the Chinese immigrants during the early days. The Peranakans were partially assimilated into the Malay culture in terms of food and dressing although they did retain some parts of the Chinese culture such as their religious worships and their names, thereby creating a fusion culture of their own.

To begin with, the Nyonya's clothing, Baju Panjang (Long Dress) was adapted from the native Malay's Baju Kurung. It is worn with a batik sarong (batik wrap-around skirt) and 3 kerosang (brooches). Beaded slippers called Kasut Manik were a hand-made with much skill and patience: strung, beaded and sewn onto canvas with tiny faceted glass beads from Bohemia (present-day Czech Republic).

Baju Panjang

Kebaya Nyonya

In modern times, glass beads from Japan are preferred. Traditional kasut manik design often have European floral motifs with colours influenced by Peranakan porcelain and batik sarongs. They were made into flats or bedroom slippers. But from the 1930s, modern shapes became popular and heels were added.

Kasut Manik

Kebaya encim was commonly wore by Chinese ladies in the Javan coastal cities with significant Chinese settlements, such as Semarang, Lasem, Tuban, Surabaya, Pekalongan and Cirebon.
It marked differently from Javanese kebaya with its smaller and finer embroidery, lighter fabrics and more vibrant colours. They also developed their own batik patterns, which incorporate symbols from China. The kebaya enicm fit well with vibrant-coloured kain batik pesisiran (Javan coastal batik), which incorporated oriental symbols and motifs from China; such as dragons, phoenixes, peonies and lotuses.  

As for the Baba they will wear baju lokchuan (which is the Chinese men full costume) but the younger generation they will wear just the top of it which is the long sleeved silk jacket with Chinese collar or the batik shirt.

Lokchuan

 

By Estelle